Hebridean Whisky Trail

A Dram Fine Time: Sample the spirit of Scotland on the new Hebridean Whisky Trail

Daniel Allen

The islands of northwest Scotland are famous for many things: their rich language, their proud history, their sense of self-reliance and their stunning landscapes and wild nature. With the opening of the Hebridean Whisky Trail last year, we can add the so-called "water of life" to this list of shared attractions.

It would be hard to think of a more dramatic corner of Britain to launch a new tourist route. The trail's spectacular 115-mile circuit, which takes in four distilleries - two on Skye, one on Raasay and one on Lewis and Harris - is set amidst the stunning Black Cuillin mountains and some of the most beautiful coastlines and seascapes of the Hebridean archipelago.

The new trail has been designed with intrepid whisky wanderers in mind, although you don't have to be a whisky aficionado to appreciate its charms.

"The trail offers visitors the opportunity to experience two of Scotland's greatest natural assets - stunning scenery and Scotch whisky," says Graeme Littlejohn, Director of Strategy and Communications at the Scotch Whisky Association.

"Both those who are yet to discover Scotch and those who are well versed in Scotland's national drink can enjoy visiting these island distilleries, each offering something quite different in terms of heritage, location and, of course, spirit."

The Hebrides, Scotland, UK — The beautiful Isle of Harris coast, Scotland

Hebrides scenery, Scotland, UK — Isle of Harris, Scotland

Serene Start

As a completely new means of exploring the islands, the Hebridean Whisky Trail encourages pilgrims to journey a little further than they may have otherwise.

The landscape is noticeably wilder and more elemental here than in other Scottish whisky-making areas, while the route's remote communities offer travellers a warm welcome and fascinating insight into Gaelic culture.

There's no definitive start and finish point to the trail. Many travellers will begin by crossing over the Skye Bridge at Kyle, but it's equally possible to kick off proceedings at the trail's northernmost point on Harris, or at its southernmost point, at Torabhaig on the serene Sleat Peninsula of southern Skye.

When it began operating at the start of 2017, Torabhaig became only the second-ever distillery on Skye. Based in a 200 year-old farmstead with fantastic panoramas over dilapidated Knock Castle - the individual stones of which were transported by horse and cart - it's a far more boutique operation than Talisker, the other Skye-based distillery. Unlike Talisker, where tours should be booked in advance, visitors can usually arrange Torabhaig tours on arrival.

Torabhaig doesn't have any of its own whisky for sampling yet, but participants on the 45-minute tours are offered Mossburn Island Blend, a smooth, peated whisky that's similar to the finish and flavour the distillers are aiming for.

Skye's second distillery is configured to produce a traditional, island-style malt whisky - medium-weight and medium-peated with a long fermentation in wooden washbacks and plenty of copper interaction providing a fruity spirit. There's also a shop and excellent cafe on site.

Isle of Harris Scenery, Scotland, UK — Serene Isle of Harris scenery, Scotland

Isle of Raasay Distillery, Scotland, UK — The Isle of Raasay Distillery

Drinking in the View

Leaving Torabhaig it's a short drive to the crofting township of Sconser, from where there's a regular ferry to Raasay (the crossing takes around half an hour).

Frequently overlooked by tourists, Raasay is most famous for being the birthplace of Gaelic poet Sorley MacLean. It may not have the drama of wilder Hebridean islands, but the distillery - located close to the island's hundred-year-old pier - offers stunning views back towards the Cuillin mountains of Skye.

While the Isle of Raasay Distillery only opened in September 2017, it began producing whisky elsewhere beforehand. Visitors can sample the lightly peated While You Wait single malt until other expressions are ready.

"The character of Hebridean whiskies is inventive and outward looking, creating a distinctive blend of hard and soft, fire and water, smoke and crystal clarity," explains Iain Hector Ross, Raasay's Visitor Experience Manager.

In addition to tours of its aroma-filled, 1300-cask warehouse, Raasay offers the special experience of a luxury stay in the beautifully restored Borodale House, situated at the heart of the distillery.

Spicy Spirit

Back on Skye, it's a 20-minute drive to Talisker. Founded in 1830, this is by far the oldest working distillery on the island, set on the shores of Loch Harport in the picturesque village of Carbost.

Deep and elemental, Talisker is very much a product of its rugged, windswept home. The whisky here is spicy, with the distillery character often described as having a chili catch.

This spicy character is most prominent in the Talisker 10 year-old single malt, while those whiskies matured in Amoroso sherry casks are milder and sweeter. Talisker has three distillery tours, with the so-called "Flight" tour offering whisky and chocolate pairings.

Talisker whisky, Scotland, UK — Talisker

Journey to the Edge

The last (or first) stop on the Hebridean Whisky Trail is the Isle of Harris Distillery, which opened in 2015. To journey here from Skye means transitioning from the Inner to Outer Hebrides - the ferry port in Uig on the Trotternish Peninsula in northeast Skye is a 45-minute drive from Talisker.

"The Isle of Harris is also known as the Social Distillery," explains Mike Donald, the distillery's Chief Storyteller. "It represents both a place and an idea for bringing people together, to share the special spirit of Harris and create a sense of belonging wherever they are from."

The Isle of Harris Distillery has yet to release a drop of whisky. The first single malt, called "The Hearach" (Gaelic for a person from Harris), will only be bottled when it has reached its best, sometime after 2020.

"The final whisky will be lightly peated, complex and well-balanced, capturing some of the real character of the island," explains Donald. "With all the processes taking place in Harris - from distillation to maturation - we're confident our whisky will be uniquely 'Harris'."

With a peat fire burning in the hearth each day, those who follow the Hebridean Whisky Trail to the Isle of Harris Distillery are always assured of a warm Outer Hebridean welcome.

The communal canteen serves a tasty menu of fresh local fare, while regular distillery tours are led by knowledgeable local guides. The Hearach might still be maturing, but the distillery's excellent gin is an excellent makeweight.