River Thames Tourism
Go With The Flow: Living it up on the London Thames
Daniel Allen
Great rivers make great cities, and the River Thames is no exception. However you choose to experience London's aquatic jewel, Britain's most famous waterway never fails to excite and inspire.
Is it a boat? Is it a bus? No, it's a London Duck, charging across the shingle-clad shoreline of the River Thames. Just downriver from Vauxhall Bridge, beneath the fortress-like exterior of London's MI6 Building, the garish yellow vehicle plunges into the fast-flowing water and heads off toward the Houses of Parliament, a flock of screaming gulls in its wake. Not quite James Bond, but surely Q would have been proud.
London Duck Tour
"There are many ways to see London," says driver and guide Matt Watts, "but none are so original, quirky and memorable as a London Duck Tour. Our six Ducks - amphibious vehicles dating back to the 1940's - are a unique way to experience the sights, sounds and stories of the Thames. Besides, where else can you go from land to water in London without leaving the comfort of your own seat?"
It may not have the voluminous flow of the mighty Ganges or Mississippi, but the Thames in London is a deeply captivating stretch of water, with more local color than a freshly painted London Duck. American-born David Tupper fell in love with the Thames and London back in 1973, and has stayed put ever since.
London Walks
"The Thames is the raisons d'être for London," explains Tupper passionately. It's the reason London is where it is. It's the reason London became, and still is, a great metropolis. The Thames is always changing - the light on it, what the tides are doing, the "look" of the foreshore at low tide, the river traffic. It's alive. It's just so protean. Set against the river, London's bridges and buildings are like stills with ever-changing exposures. The Thames is a movie - many movies."
Tupper's love of the Thames led him to become a tour guide for London Walks in 1980, and today his celebrated saunters - a combination of fun and fascinating insight - are the talk of the town.
If you've only got time for one London walk, then go for our Thames pub walk," he says. "Of the 52 different walks I've guided, this is my absolute favorite. It's a miniature history course, but it's also chock-a-block with 'change the way you see London' moments. Wharves, churches, cobbled alleyways, ancient wooden ships, London's oldest market, tide marks, bridges - throw in a couple of London's best pubs and the city's best sausages and you've got a world-beating package."
"The Thames has something for people of all ages and backgrounds," says Jeanette Briggs of the River Thames Guide. "Once described as 'liquid history', this river has lain at the heart of London for over two millennia. With Shakespeare's Globe adjoining the Tate Modern, the Gherkin and Lloyd's of London overlooking HMS Belfast and Tower Bridge, there's such an eclectic mix of contemporary and classic sights."
"For those who want an unguided meander beside the Thames, I always recommend the stretch from Westminster to London Bridge," she continues. "Cross to the south bank from the Houses of Parliament, and walk under the London Eye. Keep going past the Millennium Bridge and opposite St. Paul's Cathedral, and explore the quaint streets around Southwark Cathedral. There are plenty of cozy coffee shops and great little pubs and cafes to sustain strollers en route."
Canary Wharf
William McKechnie, manager of the Blueprint Café, may just have the best office view in the whole of London. Situated atop the Design Museum, his glass-walled restaurant commands an awe-inspiring view from Tower Bridge down to Canary Wharf. "This is an incredible panorama," he says. "From the Tower of London, built in 1078, down to the modern skyscrapers of Docklands, it really epitomizes the huge changes that the Thames has witnessed."
As well as presenting the modern face of London, Canary Wharf, whose shiny towers rose from the ashes of London's once derelict dockyards, is also the setting for one of the river's best museums - the Museum of London Docklands.
"Set in a spectacular Georgian warehouse, we unlock the history of London's river, port and people," explains museum assistant Kate Rosser. "From Roman settlers to city workers, groups can explore the story of Londoners and see how the River Thames became a global gateway as it brought invaders, merchants and immigrants through one of the world's longest serving ports into the heart of the city."
While the Thames and its environs draw millions of eager visitors to London every year, to many of the capital's residents, the river is more a way of life than a tourist attraction. For the crew of Fire Flash, the London Fire Brigade's dedicated fireboat, the Thames is the only working environment they know.
London Fireboat
"I signed up to work on the fireboat because of the changing scenery," explains Blue Watch member Jude Patricio. "This river is never the same - it keeps you on your toes. It can be peaceful and placid and it can be extremely dangerous. The Thames in London is tidal, rising and falling six meters, so there's a lot of water flowing in and out."
Patricio's boat, Fire Flash, is designed to handle all manner of emergencies - with a top speed of over 30 knots and a draft of just 18 inches, it can get most places on the river, fast. "Our jets can shoot water over 50 meters," says Jude, "but most of our incidents don't involve fires. It's mainly people who are trapped or boats in trouble. We've also helped stranded whales, and even had a seal swimming around our pontoon last year."
Oxford Cambridge Boatrace
One person who knows all about the dangerous side of the Thames is Sjoerd Hamburger, a Dutchman born and bred in Oldeberkoop. Now attending Oxford University, Sjoerd is the first non-English speaking foreigner to hold the position of president of the Oxford University Boat Club, and only the second Dutchman to take part in the legendary University Boat Race. He was a member of the winning Oxford boat in 2009, and will again be part of the Dark Blue crew as it competes against Cambridge on April 3.
"The Boat Race is a special event," explains Sjoerd. "It's one against one, with a single chance to win. The Thames is the perfect river to row on because it's so diverse. We train in Wallingford where trees surround a lovely part of the river, but at the same time the Thames in London can be rough, unforgiving and impossible to row on. I personally love to row on the Thames at its worst - when the waves come crashing in to the boat you feel humbled by its awesome power."
From mudlarking and museums to art and architecture, from sedate cruising and riverside walks to haute cuisine and high octane events, the nourishing waters of the Thames keep London as varied and vibrant as ever. With the flow of liquid history sliding inexorably past the capital's buildings and bridges, this is one movie worth watching again and again.
London Where To
Where to Stay
Tel: +44 (0)20 7231 1001
A contemporary riverside hotel with self-contained conference centre. Close to Canary Wharf, the Hilton Docklands is within easy reach of London's commercial and cultural centers.
Tel: +44 (0)20 7769 2525
Luxury riverside hotel offering a range of high-end, contemporary suites. Strategically positioned on the south bank of the Thames, the Plaza offers some spectacular views over Tate Britain, the London Eye and Houses of Parliament.
Where to Eat & Drink
- Blueprint Café, above the Design Museum, Shad Thames
Tel: +44 (0)20 7378 7031 / Web: www.blueprintcafe.co.uk
Simple, filling and delicious European cuisine in a stylish, airy environment overlooking the Thames at Tower Bridge. Fresh fish delivered daily - check out the smoked eel sandwich with red onion pickle and Lowestoft kippers. Perfect for families and romantic evening dining.
- Tamesis Dock, Albert Embankment
Tel: +44 (0)20 7582 1066 / Web: www.tamesisdock.co.uk
A converted Dutch barge moored just downstream from the Houses of Parliament, the Tamesis Dock offers great views over the Thames, as well as a wide selection of beer and snack food.
What to See & Do
- London Walks
Tel: +44 (0)20 7624 3978 / Web: www.walks.com
Get the fascinating low-down on Thames history with London's pre-eminent guided walking tour company.
- Museum of London Docklands, West India Quay, Canary Wharf
Tel: +44 (0)870 444 3856 / Web: www.museumindocklands.org.uk
From Roman settlement to Docklands' regeneration, this former sugar warehouse reveals the long history of London as a port through stories of trade, migration and commerce.
- London Duck Tours
Tel: +44 (0)20 (0)20 7928 3132 / Web: www.londonducktours.co.uk
London Listings
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Further Info
- The River Thames Guide
Web: www.riverthames.co.uk
An invaluable one-stop shop for all things Thames-related, including boat trips, dining, accommodation, events and activities.- Official Guide to the River Thames
Web: www.visitthames.co.uk
Similar to the River Thames Guide but covers the upper Thames from the Cotswolds to London.Thames Events
- Oxford & Cambridge University Boat Race
Early April at 16:30
Visit www.theboatrace.org for information on watching the race- Devizes to Westminster International Canoe Race
Early April
More information: www.dwrace.org.uk
Best vantage point Westminster Bridge, April 4 and 5, 0900 - 1200- The Mayor's Thames Festival
September annually
- Launched in 1997, the Mayor's Thames Festival is a stunning, free celebration of London and its river, and has become a key highlight of the city's cultural calendar. For more information check www.thamesfestival.org.
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