Whitby Guide
Sink Your Teeth Into Whitby: Cod, Cook, Coal, and Counts
If there is one place you simply must visit along the North Yorkshire coast, it is Whitby. With its rich history, atmospheric abbey ruins, picturesque fishing harbour and unmistakable charm, it is easy to see why Whitby remains one of the most loved seaside towns in the north of England. Add to the mix stunning coastal views, a connection with a young Captain Cook and the visit of one Count Dracula in Bram Stoker's novel and you have the perfect weekend getaway or why not stay for longer?
History
Perched high above the town, Whitby Abbey dates back to the seventh century and played an important role in the early development of Christianity in England, becoming a renowned centre of religious learning.
Below, along the banks of the River Esk, fishing boats have brought in their catches for centuries. The town's fortunes changed dramatically during the eighteenth century, when the whaling industry brought a new era of prosperity.
Whitby's maritime heritage has inspired writers and explorers alike. Herman Melville's Moby-Dick references the town's celebrated whalers, including William Scoresby, while a young James Cook began his seafaring career here in 1746, shipping coal from the northeast to London. Eventually Cook was to become one of Britain's most famous explorers and navigators. All four of his renowned ships of discovery – the Endeavour, Resolution, Adventure and Discovery - were built in Whitby.
Captain Cook
With such a remarkable maritime history, it is hardly surprising that Whitby proudly celebrates its connection with Captain James Cook. Between 1746 and 1749, Cook served his apprenticeship in the town under the guidance of John Walker, a Quaker shipowner. It was here that the foundations were laid for the extraordinary voyages that would later make him a national hero. Visitors can still enter John Walker's rickety old house which now houses the Captain Cook Memorial Museum and a statue of the man stands looking out to sea in People's Park on the West Cliff. The museum explores several themes including Cook's Life and Times; Cook's Time in Whitby; Cook's Time in the Royal Navy and Voyage to Canada; The Three Great Voyages and Countries with links to Cook. Highlights include handwritten letters by James Cook himself, alongside important correspondence such as a note from King George III expressing grief over Cook's death in Hawaii in 1779. Also on display are original drawings and watercolors by artists who traveled on Cook's Pacific expeditions (such as John Webber, William Hodges, and Sydney Parkinson). Visitors can also see ship models of Whitby-built collier barks (like the Endeavour and Resolution), and ethnographic artifacts from New Zealand and the Pacific.
The Town
The River Esk divides Whitby into two distinctive areas, connected by a swing bridge. To the east lies the atmospheric old town, with its winding cobbled streets and historic buildings. Across the bridge is West Cliff, an area largely characterised by elegant eighteenth- and nineteenth-century architecture.
The heart of the old town can be found along cobbled Church Street, whose character has changed little over the centuries. Today, its historic buildings house welcoming tearooms, independent shops and gift stores. Nearby, parallel Sandgate offers more opportunities to browse, with both streets leading towards the small marketplace, where stalls sell local souvenirs and traditional seaside keepsakes. A farmers' market is also held here every Thursday.
Whitby Abbey
Whitby Abbey perched on a cliff overlooking Whitby on the North Yorkshire coast, is a spectacular ruin now associated with the story of Bram Stoker's Dracula. The abbey is administered by English Heritage and the site includes a Visitor Centre (in the north wing of Abbey House), gardens, a gift shop and cafe. The history of Whitby Abbey stretches back more than 1,300 years. The first monastery on the headland was founded around 657 AD by St Hild (Hilda), becoming an important centre of Christianity and learning in the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria. It was the setting for the Synod of Whitby in 664, a significant religious gathering that helped establish the Roman tradition within the English Church.
The ruined abbey is now a popular picturesque attraction. Its dramatic Gothic ruins overlooking the North Sea have since become one of Yorkshire's best-known landmarks, while its association with Bram Stoker's Dracula has added to Whitby's distinctive Gothic character.
St Mary's Church
St Mary's Church, close to Whitby Abbey, is a 12th century, Grade I listed Anglican church and like the abbey is closely associated with the story of Bram Stoker's Dracula. The church is spectacularly located on Whitby's east cliff, overlooking the mouth of the River Esk. The church is reached via the Church Steps, a flight of 199 steps from the town below. The interior of St Mary's Church retains a wealth of historic features, including 19th-century galleries in the nave and transept, reached by both internal and external staircases. A distinctive three-decker pulpit, installed in 1778 and modified in 1847, remains in the church alongside its 18th-century box pews, some of which are marked "For Strangers Only". North of the chancel arch is a fine Jacobean pew, while the church also contains a monument to Sir Richard Cholmley, who died in 1631. Another notable memorial commemorates Lieutenant-General Peregrine Lascelles (1685-1772), a prominent 18th-century British army officer who fought in several conflicts, including the Battle of Prestonpans in 1745.
Dracula Connection
Drawing on his own observations of Whitby, a town he knew well and where he once stayed in a house on West Cliff (now commemorated with a plaque), Bram Stoker created a fascinating tale blending real places, local legends, mythology and historical events. One particularly memorable detail – the grounding of Count Dracula's ship on Tate Hill Sands – was inspired by an actual incident reported in the local newspapers.
As many of the novel's early chapters are recognisably set in Whitby, it is little wonder that the town has embraced its connection with Dracula. Visitors can follow the popular Dracula Trail, taking in several locations featured in the story, including Tate Hill Sands, the Abbey, St Mary's Church and its famous steps, the old churchyard and Stoker's former residence.
Down by the harbour, the Dracula Experience (draculaexperience.co.uk) at 9 Marine Parade offers a more theatrical, if somewhat cheesy, take on the town's Gothic heritage. Whitby's association with the supernatural has also made it a favourite destination for Goth enthusiasts, who descend on the town in large numbers twice a year – in late spring and around Halloween. These gatherings celebrate all things Gothic, with vampire-themed balls, live music, concerts and literary readings adding to Whitby's wonderfully atmospheric character.
Museums in Whitby
Besides the Captain Cook Memorial Museum another worthwhile visit is the eclectic Whitby Museum (whitbymuseum.org.uk), up the hill in Pannett Park from the train station on West Cliff. There are stuffed exotic stuffed animals brought back as souvenirs by Captain Cook's crew, as well as exhibits devoted to the town's seafaring tradition, in particular its whaling industry. There are also fossils of Jurassic period marine reptiles found on the east coast. In addition there are also collections of costimes, fine art, photography and Whitby Jet gemstones.
Whitby Eat & Drink
Duke of York, 124 Church Street
A quintessential Whitby pub, ideally situated at the foot of the famous 199 Steps. Offering lovely views across the harbour, it attracts a friendly mix of locals and visitors, drawn by its reasonably priced food, relaxed atmosphere and occasional live music. For rooms at the Duke of York book with Booking.com
Magpie Café, 14 Pier Road
A Whitby institution and a favourite destination for traditional fish and chips for over 50 years. Alongside its famous battered fish, the café offers an extensive menu with plenty of alternatives for those looking for something different. Be prepared for a queue during the busy summer months, as both the restaurant and takeaway are particularly popular. (www.magpiecafe.co.uk)
Whitby Folk Week
The annual Whitby Folk Week is a seven-day festival celebrating British traditional song, dance, music, and storytelling in the town. It takes place before the August Bank Holiday at venues such as Whitby Pavilion, Whitby Town Football Club, The Rifle Club, and The Spa Theatre. It began in 1965 and features concerts, ceilidhs, daily dance displays (Morris and clog dancing among them), lectures, storytelling, instrument learning sessions, as well as various workshops. In 2027 the event will be from August 21-27.
Accommodation in Whitby
Accommodation in Whitby is a mix of hotels, traditional inns and B&Bs.
See a listing of accommodation in Whitby. Some recommendations include the 3-star Saxonville Hotel, the up-market Sneaton Castle and the beachfront Duke of York convenient for the Captain Cook Memorial Museum and Whitby Station.
Access - getting to Whitby
Whitby railway station is served by Northern Trains, with six trains a day from Monday to Saturday to Middlesbrough via Nunthorpe, including one service continuing to Newcastle via Hartlepool. On Sundays, there are four services to Middlesbrough, with two continuing to Darlington.
The station is also served by the 24-mile long North Yorkshire Moors Railway, (www.nymr.co.uk) which operates heritage trains between Whitby and Pickering via Grosmont, with services running daily from Easter until the end of October, plus some additional services at other times of the year.
From Whitby train station St Mary's Church and Whitby Abbey are about 15 minutes on foot via the 199 steps.
Whitby is well connected by bus, with regular services from Middlesbrough, Scarborough and Leeds. The X93 runs from Middlesbrough via Guisborough to Whitby, taking around 70 minutes, with hourly services and every two hours on Sundays.
The X4 and X4A also connect Middlesbrough with Whitby via the coastal towns of Redcar and Saltburn, running every 30 minutes, or hourly on Sundays.
From Scarborough, Bus 93 travels via Robin Hood's Bay to Whitby hourly every day, taking about one hour.
Coastliner 840 provides a longer-distance service from Leeds via York Station in York, Malton and Pickering, with four buses a day from Monday to Saturday and fewer services on Sundays.
From London, take a train from London King's Cross to York and change for services to Scarborough or Middlesbrough.
If traveling by train from Manchester Piccadilly take a train to either Leeds or York then change for services to Scarborough or Middlesbrough.
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