Isle of Mull, Inner Hebrides, Scotland
Mull (An t-Eilean Muileach), Hebrides, Scotland
The Isle of Mull is the second largest island of the Inner Hebrides after Skye to the north.
Like its larger neighbour, Mull is known for its whisky with a distillery in the picturesque, colourful port town of Tobermory.
The island is one of the wettest in the Hebrides and you will need a little luck with the weather to enjoy the island at its best.
An island of mist and mystery, Mull has four castles to explore and an ancient stone circle. Wildlife in and around the island includes rare eagles, dolphins, seals and whales.
Mull is easily reached by ferry from the Scottish mainland from Oban.
Attractions
Mull is the fourth largest Scottish island with a population of just under 3,000 though this swells during the summer tourist season.
There is a lot to see and do and it is best to spend a night or two to see everything worth visiting.
If the weather is clear the 480 km coastline has wonderful walking and views.
Most visitors arrive on the ferry from Oban at Craignure. Nearby Duart Castle has spectacular views out over the Sound of Mull.
Duart Castle
Dating originally from the 13th century, Duart Castle has a long and somewhat turbulent history. It is now back in the hands of the Maclean clan and was restored in 1912 after lying empty for well over a century. There's a dungeon, the courtyard, a tearoom and those wonderful views from the battlements. The castle can also be hired for "exclusive weddings" and other events.
Across Duart Bay lies Torosay Castle. Sadly it is no longer open to the public and the miniature steam railway that ran to the castle and the ferry, the Isle of Mull Railway, is also no longer running and the rails have been taken up. It is possible to walk the track where the railway once was, however.
The baronial mansion of Torosay was designed by the prolific Scottish architect David Bryce (1803-1876) best known for his works in the "Scottish Baronial" style such as the Bank of Scotland and the Royal Infirmary in the capital, Edinburgh. The house and 12 acres of spectacular, ornamental gardens date from 1858. The grounds, which include a Japanese garden and an avenue of Italian statuary, may open on the first Sunday of every month during the tourist season. Check locally or at the Tourist Office in Oban.
Tobermory
On the northeast coast, the small port town of Tobermory, is well-known to a certain generation from the children's TV series, Balamory.
Its brightly-painted houses along the harbour make for a memorable photograph and there are a few interesting museums.
The free Mull Museum has exhibits on the history of the island, crofting and a sunken galleon from the Spanish Armada of 1588. The museum is open from Easter to the end of October and has a large archive of documents available for research purposes. (mullmuseum.org.uk)
Whale-watching tours can be booked at Sea Life Surveys (Tel: 01688 302916).
The Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust on Main Street on the harbour is a fun time for kids with interactive exhibits and wall charts on the various sea mammals found in the waters around Mull (hwdt.org).
The Tobermory Distillery Visitor Centre has tours of the historic, whisky distillery that opened in 1798. The tours should be booked online and include tastings and a visit to the popular shop. The distillery produces two fine single malts: Tobermory and Ledaig. (tobermorydistillery.com)
Calgary & North Mull
The village of Calgary, 12 miles from Tobermory on the north coast, has given its name to the much larger city in Canada. Near its superb beach, with views out to Coll, is the Calgary Art in Nature project with its evocative Sculpture Walk.
There are works in various materials by such artists as Michelle Cowe, Trevor Leat, Lisa McKenna and Helen Mortley.
Glengorm Castle, near the northern tip of the island is a 19th-century castle. The castle itself is not open to the public and is now an upmarket B&B and wedding venue. The outbuildings, however, house a small arts and craft gallery, a shop selling local produce and a cafe. You can book rooms at Glengorm Castle here.
Ulva
On the northwestern coast, south of Calgary, there are ferries over to the community-owned island of Ulva. The island nowadays has a population of less than 10 (much reduced from nearly 1,000 in the 19th century before the Highland Clearances) and is connected by bridge to neighbouring Gometra - an island owned by environmentalist Roc Sandford. Ulva has enjoyed a renaissance since becoming community-owned. The island has breathtaking scenery and is home to rare White-tailed Sea Eagles as well as Golden Eagles, Hen Harriers, otters, seals and the very rare Scotch Burnet Moth. (More information at ulva.scot).
There is also an Ulva island in New Zealand and it was the birthplace of Lachlan Macquarie (1762-1824), a governor of New South Wales in Australia. He is sometimes known as "The Father of Australia" and is buried on Mull.
South Mull
Ben More, the highest peak on Mull at 966 meters, is an ancient volcano and a favourite with walkers. A couple of well-marked paths will lead you to the summit. The ascent is steep, be warned!
The 20 km long sea loch, Loch na Keal, almost bisects the island, just to the north of Ben More. It is surrounded by the Loch na Keal National Scenic Area.
Southwest of Craignure and south of Calgary and the Loch na Keal, is the Ross of Mull. This peninsula leads to Fionnphort and the short ferry ride to Iona. On the south coast are the beautiful Carsaig Arches. The latter are a series of natural arches formed in the cliffs.
At Fionnphort the former Columba Centre now showcases local arts and crafts and offers workshops. It also has a small community gym.
Iona
Iona, a small island off the southern tip of Mull, was where the Irish Saint Columba established a monastic community in 563 with the aim of spreading Christianity in Scotland. It is one of the earliest Christian centres in Western Europe.
The Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript containing the four Gospels of the New Testament, now kept at Trinity College in Dublin, was written here.
By the 13th century the community had become a Benedictine monastery and an Augustinian nunnery, despite Viking attacks, until it was mostly destroyed in the Calvinist Scottish Reformation of the mid-16th century.
The community was re-established in the early 20th century and now offers a variety of spiritual courses and retreats.
The modern abbey complex contains a museum with a number of ancient Medieval carved stones and Celtic crosses. Adjacent to the abbey is a graveyard supposedly, though not definitively containing the graves of 48 Scottish monarchs including Macbeth.
Isle of Staffa
West of Mull in the Irish Sea sits Fingal's Cave, a marine cavern on the small Isle of Staffa. Created by the same lava flow as the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland, the cave has a unique, cathedral-like structure, while its hexagonal columns are similar to those of its Irish counterpart. Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott said that the cave "baffled all description", and composer Felix Mendelssohn created his Hebrides Overture after hearing echoes inside (the cave's Gaelic name, Uamh-Binn, means "cave of melody"). Boat trips are available from Iona, Mull and the Scottish mainland, depending on the weather.
Accommodation
Mull has several hotels as well as numerous guesthouses, Bed & Breakfasts, and a lot of self-catering accommodations.
Some recommended places to stay include the Pennyghael Hotel on the Ross of Mull with a restaurant, bar and pleasant garden, the St Columba Hotel on Iona with bar, garden and restaurant and the Tobermory Hotel on Main Street. The property offers a restaurant, bar, shared lounge, and free WiFi.
Also in Tobermory are the Western Isles Hotel with great sea views and the Park Lodge Hotel on Western Road, a short walk from the harbour front.
At Craignure the luxury Isle Of Mull Hotel and Spa offers stunning views and a variety of spa therapies.
See a listing of accommodation options on Mull.
Access - Getting There
Ferries To Mull
Three car ferries connect Mull to the Scottish mainland. There are CalMac ferries from Lochaline to Fishnish on the east coast (15 minutes), Oban to Craignure (75 minutes) and Kilchoan to Tobermory (35 minutes).
Various ferries also connect Mull to the surrounding islands of Iona, Col and Tiree.
There are also ferries from Oban to Barra and South Uist.
Car
Oban is 44 miles south of Fort William and 97 miles northwest of Glasgow. By car from Glasgow it is an approximately 2 hour, 20 minute drive on the A82 and A85 to Oban.
Train & Bus
Fairly regular trains from Glasgow to Oban take around 3 hours.
There are also coaches from Glasgow to Oban usually via Tarbet and Inveraray (also 3 hours).
Getting Around
Renting a car is a good idea for getting around this part of Scotland. There is also cycle hire in Tobermory among other places.
Scotland Related
Hermaness National Nature Reserve
Map of Mull
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